Big Names in California Wine, Part 2: Francis Coppola Diamond Collection Black Label Claret 2011

Francis Coppola Diamond Collection 2011 Black Label Claret

Today’s follow-up to last week is about a nice Claret tribute from Francis Coppola’s winery, which is next door to Mondavi’s. After visiting with Mondavi at his winery, the author of “The Accidental Connoisseur” next paid a visit to this gothic-inspired winery in his quest to discover taste and sense of place. Read part one below this entry if you’re tuning in now…

While some might be skeptical when seeing a wine brand from somebody who clearly didn’t make his name in the wine business, I reiterate that many of the successful winemakers I’ve met or read about in my own quest started out being great at something else first.  And if not making it themselves, they have a vision and a good winemaker, which is okay too! Perhaps they always had the passion, but not the means for such a venture until they succeeded in another line of business. I myself, though not a winemaker, consider myself like the author, an “accidental connoisseur.” Wine is a pretty amazing thing.  Everything from the growing, to the vinification, to bottling has its own risks and rewards and many find themselves quickly consumed by wine and wine culture. And one thing I know is Francis Coppola takes his film work very seriously, to stellar results. So why wouldn’t he strive for the same results in any venture? I was pleasantly surprised by the depth of this wine and have really been enjoying it. At $17.99 its not a cheap wine, but its quality warrants the price.

The wine’s name pays tribute to the original Clarets imported from France by the British back in the day. The gold netting is a tribute to their original presentation, and the inspiration for this wine comes from a Bordeaux blend that they discovered in the cellar when they purchased the Gustave Niebaum “Inglenook” property in 1975. Niebaum was a Norwegian sea captain who founded the original winery in 1886 and had significant success in the 1940′s with winemaker John Daniel. The original Daniel wines are now very collectable. This wine is also the first and flagship wine of the Diamond Collection they started in 1997. Here’s a neat video on their site showing you how to open it and preserve the netting at the same time. It is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon like the original Medoc reds from the region, with the expected Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot in the mix. Coppola calls this their signature, prize offering, which I think explains the pricing. And actually, $18 is not at all unreasonable for a good Napa Cab. It is aged 15 months in French oak, to complete the authenticity. At 13.5% abv, its just right. Winemaker Corey Beck has done a nice job with this one.

It is deep ruby in color and on the nose is blackberry, cherry, cassis, tobacco and clove. On the palate there is more black and red fruit, clove and baking spice from the oak. The tannins are firm and it has a nice acidity to balance it out. It should age well in my opinion. But I just finished it so fast I feel a bit like a thirsty vampire!  Now if only I had had Dracula on DVD to watch while I drank — a favorite film of mine. Gary Oldman is one great vampire, and so I tolerate Keanu Reeves. But it’s not all Dracula here. There is also memorabilia from Apocolypse Now and The Godfather films amongst the winery decor.

Here’s a great quote from the book about the visit to the winery:

“Its long driveway is adorned with voluptuous iron lamps brought from Paris, and as I drove down it a preposterously Gothic mansion swung into view. Edgar Allen Poe amid palms … following the Mondavi example, Coppola thought to revive the old Niebaum place by making it into a tourist attraction, a mixture of enological airport boutique and personal shrine to his own electrifying personality. People love it.”

Even if it’s a bit optimized for tourists, would you expect less from a renowned film director? Its on my visit-when-I’m out there list. Why can’t wine also be fun and not all stuffy all the time…

Big Names in California Wine, Part 1: Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2009

Mondavi Fumé Blanc 2009

Before I get to reviewing the wine, I wanted to give you a little background on my choice for this first entry in this series, and the inspiration behind it. Because wine isn’t just about taste, its about the experience and the story.

I’ve been having a great time reading “The Accidental Connoisseur: An Irreverent Journey Through the Wine World” by Lawrence Osborne. In the book, the author explores the meaning and experience of taste by visiting many vineyards and winemakers in France, Italy and the United States. We all know taste is that thing that so many people have wasted countless amounts of breath and ink trying to pinpoint, but at the end of the day, it all comes down to the individual. Though the book also explores taste as a factor of the market.  It’s a memoir of his own personal quest for answers and that is all it attempts to be. There are many parallels in the book to my own journey of discovery here (including the necessary humor and humility) so it is all the more rewarding.

The book starts with the author in Sassoferrato, Italy where Robert Mondavi’s family was from, to attempt to trace the inspiration and roots of a man that would become American wine royalty by the 1970s.

Back in California, he travels to meet and taste with Mondavi himself, before venturing onto Coppola, Beringer, Opus One (a Mondavi-Rothschild venture of much acclaim), Sterling and the more off-the-beaten-path Chalone in Edna Valley. It doesn’t take long to realize that in Napa these days, clusters of large-scaled and architecturally-themed wineries are just another kind of Disneyland, as much for the experience as the product itself. That being said, it is a beautiful place. I rode the Napa Valley wine train many years ago and visited Markham for a dinner and tasting and I was in heaven. That was the first time I had a wine and said “whoah.” Nowadays with the region thriving, there are many a smaller, traditional winery making boutique wines at higher prices. But even these ‘garagiste’ wineries are larger in scale and distribution than many of their foreign counterparts, with plenty of money backing their ventures.

Currently in the book, and I mention this because I got a good laugh here, the author is in Russian River Valley,  in the company of a French tourist also obsessed with tasting great California wines. Despite the reputation of Rochioli Pinot Noir, both are struggling to taste the ‘Russian Riverness” in the glass.  It is this same experience we all aim for when trying to taste terroir or a sense of place in the glass that is so humorous and validating. And trying to actually taste anything from ‘cigar-box’ to ‘tutti-frutti’ can be fruitless (thank you), all the while winemakers declaring their product ‘hedonistic’ are everywhere, begging the question: “I don’t  necessarily agree. Is it me?”

But this all got me thinking again about how my earliest introductions to wine were large producers from California. So while at the wine shop today, I picked up a few of them to revisit the subject and taste some from the author’s travels. Mondavi – check. Coppola – check. Beringer – check. I don’t have the means very often to pick up an Opus One or a Screaming Eagle. If you’d like, you can send me one and I’d be happy to review it. Anyone? Today I will start by reviewing a Mondavi Fumé Blanc. Now that I feel I have come to a more educated place about wine, and my palate and experience far more mature, I am curious to see if these are wines (and again, this is MY taste, I’m not a critic) I would enjoy more with this new knowledge at my disposal.

While many don’t necessarily value a Mondavi as a top American wine anymore, you have to admire that this man was a big part of putting a fairly obscure wine region at the time onto the world wine map. Of course the judgement of Paris also went a long way to that end, as well as timing. Prohibition was over just a few decades ago and there were few American wineries in the area doing anything to note. And while his family was enjoying success making inexpensive wines at lower cost, Mondavi was ambitious and strove to take it to the next level. He bought out nearby reputable vineyards to set up his own winery. It was there that he began upgrading his techniques and experimenting, producing the types of American Cabernets that made the region start to take off again.

In 1966 he succeeded in mass-marketing a wine made in the same methods of its French counterpart, but with its own unique terroir and fingerprint. With his Fumé Blanc, he brought the barrel-aged style of Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fumé in France to millions of Americans. This was a style and variety that was almost unknown to the non-connoisseur population in this country. Consumers who hadn’t heard of or couldn’t afford a Pouilly-Fumé could at least feel they just expanded their cultural and taste palates. So he certainly knew what he was doing, and is an American wine icon, whether you love it or hate it.

Lemon-gold in color, the 2009 Napa Valley Fumé Blanc had expected floral and grassy notes on the nose, along with some melon, citrus and vanilla from the obvious time in oak. On the palate the oak was stronger and the body full, but it still had a racy acidity and citrus and mineral notes. This is definitely more oaked than I am used to in a Sauvignon Blanc but it was all quite well balanced.

This was priced at $15.99 for a 750ml bottle, and I feel a good value and a good wine. So, off to a good start.

On another North Fork kick…

2012 Paumanok Chenin Blanc

Kick, sure. I wanted to use the word bender but that’s definitely less classy a title, isn’t it?  But again Long Island wines are making my life a happier one. You know me, I can go on and on and on about how great the region and its wines are, and I have. Just check the archives…

The past few days are no exception. On Friday night I had the wonderful opportunity to pour some of my favorite North Fork wines — Paumanok and Sparkling Pointe — at a company tasting event (with one of the winemakers himself). It was easy to talk about them in depth with eager customers, given the amount of passion I feel for the region and its wines.

Then, when I arrived home I got a notice that my first club shipment from Anthony Nappa’s Winemakers studio had arrived. I will be going at lunchtime to pick that up and am already picturing popping open a Bordo or Anomoly later. Is it 5:30 yet?

And yesterday I continued by sharing with my family a Paumanok 2012 Chenin Blanc (which I got to try from the tank mid-fermentation last fall thanks to a special private tour) and a wonderful Lieb Cellars Cabernet Franc I picked up when on a visit out there last month. On that last visit I had the pleasure of meeting their head winemaker and we talked for hours about the craft and the joy of wine, how we ended up in the business and where we’d like to go. I ended up joining that club as well and look forward to their shipment. My regular share of the North Fork’s best is secure.

The 2012 Paumanok Chenin Blanc was crisp and refreshing with citrus and floral notes on the nose, and melon and grapefruit on the palate. It had a zippy but balanced acidity and medium body and finish. On this hot and sunny afternoon it was a perfect fit, sipped in the garden with some hors d’oeuvres. It is 100% Chenin Blanc and bottled with a screwcap to keep it fresh until its gone. It is a blend of three lots of Chenin and is made by slow cool fermentation in steel tanks to retain the acidity and bright fruit. It retails at $28. I have yet to have a Paumanok I didn’t love and there’s no exception here. Delicious.

Lieb Cellars 2008 Reserve Cabernet Franc

The 2008 Lieb Cellars Reserve Cabernet Franc was delicious as well. I had it both with a fresh charcuterie tray at lunchtime in my parents’ sunny garden, as well as with my first BBQ of the season last night. It paired perfectly with the cold meat and the grilled burgers. It is ruby in color with notes of pepper, some perfume, toast and a little game on the nose. The palate carried over these aromas, with some cassis and wildflower hints. It’s structure was well-balanced in acidity and tannin and the finish was smooth. It retails at $26, and hopefully my first club case has a bit more of this, because I’m now all out! I tried many of their wines last month, and look forward to sharing my notes on more of them when they arrive at my door.  Also to note is this vineyard is completely herbicide-free.

Something I’ve noticed about all the winemakers in this region that I’ve met (and there are at least 5) is how friendly, approachable and passionate they are about their wines. There is none of the pretentious wine-snobbery here that you’d find in other places, even with the stunning wines they are producing. It is so refreshing, and it is one of the reasons I am more and more entranced with the craft of wine-making and this region every time I visit. It’s inspiring.

You can get wines from both of these fine vineyards in many New York City restaurants and shops, as well as in their tasting rooms, which I of course recommend. They will treat you right. Also, you can order online at www.liebcellars.com or www.paumanok.com.

Alto Adige Wines USA Grand Tasting, April 25th 2013, New York City

Alto Adige Wines USA Grand Tasting NYC

Update: I have slightly revised a portion of this entry based on feedback I received. While it appeared to be a Snooth event to me it apparently was just being promoted by them which is how I came to be at the event. Also it seems there was more extensive literature provided earlier in the day at a related event but as I was among the first ten through the door at this tasting at 7pm I can reiterate that there was none of this broader literature present by the tasting portion. I also have revised my geographical error. I appreciate the feedback and opportunity to be corrected. After all I’m here to learn and share that learning and personal experience with you. I don’t see my capacity as that of a critic. I do this for personal enjoyment not income or reputation. Thanks.

Last night I went to a Grand Tasting in Manhattan presented by Alto Adige Wines USA. This region is also known as Südtirol. There were tasting tables for Pinot Grigio, Pinot Bianco, Schiava, Lagrein, Pinot Nero, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, and ‘other varieties’ which included Moscato, Riesling, Sylvaner and Kerner blends. Kerner was a new wine for me, and hence exciting to try. Named after a German doctor and poet with some poems and songs focusing on wine, it was very tasty. It is a German variety brought here in the 1970s. The Alto Adige region includes the Dolomite Mountains and the Italian Alps and shares bi-cultural and bi-lingual ties with Germany and Austria which informs several of the varieties grown in this part of Italy.

In the two hours the event lasted, I was able to taste through about 25 wines. I think 3 hours is a safe minimum when featuring this many wines. Though I have heard others say 3 is too long. Overall there were around 20 different producers. Each table was split by variety (except for the mixed table) not by producer. I might have preferred it the other way, but I also think this works as it helps you do horizontal comparisons from multiple producers. Here are my picks:

Favorite producers: Franz Haas Winery and Lahnhof.

Favorite wines:

Lahnof Pinot Bianco Firmalein 2011 – $19

Cantina Valle Osarco Kerner 2011 – $27

Tenuta Lentsch Moscato Giallo 2011 – $19.99

Kaltern Caldaro Lago di Caldaro (Schiava) Pfarrhof 2011 – $18

Nals Margreid Schiava Galea 2011 – $22.99

Castelfeder Pinot Nero Glener 2010 – $21.99

Franz Haas Winery Pinot Nero 2010 – $49.99

Erste + Neue Pinot Grigio Classic 2012 – $15.99

Lahnof Pinot Grigio 2011 – $22

Franz Haas Winery Manna 2010 (blend) – $39.99

The event in the Metropolitan Pavilion

There was also a Sauvignon Blanc table and while they had some nice examples it wasn’t high on my priority list as its not a local specialty and I was really going for that experience.

The crowd was a mix of young and old professionals. The music was more of a young New Yorker’s mix. My savvy music ear was able to discern current New York City rock bands the Strokes and TV on the Radio over the din of the room.

There was also a catered table of gourmet cheeses, meats, breads and condiments including some Lagrein cheese (which I paired with some Lagrein wines, of course) and fine prosciutto.

Catered local specialty foods

A nice modern touch here was a large projector screen with rotating past tweets about the event. I feel like it was a lost opportunity not having the ability to add live tweets by attendees to the stream.

I also think there could have been more complete printed material on the producers and wines. Or perhaps some sort of master checklist or tasting note sheets to better document favorite new discoveries for when you’re ready to buy. And on that note, where do I buy? My immediate assumption is that that information is online somewhere, but making it easy to find them after the event translates into sales. The producers would have benefited from having this information included in the event materials. If printing all that is costly, at the very least provide a website landing page with links to where you can purchase all of the wines. I looked but couldn’t find one. I feel like this was a big oversight.

There was at least one person, whether a winemaker or rep, at each table that could answer my more technical questions on the wines but there were also several who were just pourers who didn’t know much about what they were pouring at all. I believe some of these were just staff from the wineries themselves that weren’t formally educated in wine in their job capacities and came along to help.

Overall it was a lovely event, I discovered new wines I loved, and I look forward to the next one. Everyone got a nice tote bag and a small printed guide to the event and varieties in general. There was a good crowd and everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves, myself and my wife included. A fun spin on the event is a contest where you can tweet photos of yourself and friends enjoying the event and win prizes like Alto Adige wines or mountain-climbing classes.

Latest Tastes from France and Italy

Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons Millesime 2010

Last week while in Florida on vacation, I absconded with 2 bottles of my father-in-law’s collection (with his permission, of course) for a short jot down to the keys. One was the Zuccardi Q Malbec I reviewed for Malbec World Day, and the other was a fine Chablis, which I enjoyed by the oceanside pool. It was a Simonnet-Febvre Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons Millesime 2010, and it was excellent.

Its appearance was a lovely lemon-gold. On the nose were citrus, some tropical fruit and grassy, dare I say ‘barnyard’ aromas. This is not meant to be derogatory, I have picked that gem of a descriptor up in several quality wines. How’s that for terroir? On the palate were crisp lemon-lime, more hints of tropical fruit, chalky/mineral accents and light vanilla from obvious time in oak. It had the full body and nice finish expected from French Chardonnay but the pronounced acidity and chalky notes expected in a Chablis. It was very enjoyable in the chaise lounge, as I’m sure it would equally be at the dinner table. As I hadn’t bought the bottle myself, I looked up the price and it averages around $25. This is a good price for a quality Premier Cru Chablis.

The other bottle, which I enjoyed last night was a budget-friendly yet delicious Cusumano 2011 Nero D’Avola from the Italian island of Sicily. It averages around $11 and they stock it at my local wine discount store, which is good news for me. It was deep ruby in color and on the nose were jammy red cherry and strawberry, cocoa and pepper spice. The palate echoed these aromas, with a bright acidity and tannin that were all very well balanced for a youthful wine (it also ages well). The body was full and satisfying and the finish provided more of the spicy edge.

2011 Cusumano Nero d’Avola Sicilia IGT

Nero means black in Italian and it gets its name from the dark color of this indigenous grape as well as the town it is most associated with, Avola. There is some question as to whether its other name, Calabrese, means its from Calabria originally. But either way, it is an important and historical variety in Sicily. It has also been used to add color to lighter reds from the mainland though its enjoying success on its own as of late. I can see why. This is a favorite of mine, and at this price I will buy it by the case to enjoy with casual dinners and with my friends. I also like the glass cork the bottle uses.

I paired it with a delicous garlic and pepper-laden chicken fettucini alfredo and it complemented the savory sauce very well.

Speaking of Italian wines, later this week I will be going to an Alto Adige tasting in New York City. I am looking forward to sharing that experience with you.

Malbec Day Review: Zuccardi Q 2010

Zuccardi “Q” 2010 Mendoza Malbec

Today, April 17, 2013, marks the third anniversary of Malbec World Day. This year, Malbec will also be represented as a cultural and artistic expression using street art as the medium. In over 30 countries around the world, tastings, dinners and parties will be thrown to celebrate the grape. Known by other names in its native France — both Cot and Auxerrois, it is believed to have originated in either Cahors or northern Burgundy.

Why today? On this day in 1853, Argentine president Domingo Faustino Sarmiento proposed diversifying and expanding the country’s wine industry, including a school of agriculture. Malbec and other varieties were brought to the country on behalf of this effort, and it was not long after this time that Malbec’s storied history in Mendoza would really begin. Ten years later, as Phylloxera was wiping out most of the Malbec vines in France, the variety was thriving in the rugged, hot and high-altitude terrain of Argentina, with perhaps even better results than its homeland. The intense sunshine allowed the grapes to ripen fully, and the sandy soils were inhospitable to Phylloxera. And while the school of agriculture didn’t last, Argentine Malbec would begin to make headlines in the wine world. In the 1950′s, a major frost in France also destroyed large quantities of French vines, including 75% of the Malbec in Bordeaux and surrounding regions. While it has since recovered and is still popular in Cahors and other regions around the globe, it has been the most celebrated red variety in Argentina ever since. It is known for highly tannic, plummy and deep-colored wines on its own, or used in blends where it is employed to add depth and color.

Rating at an average 90 points from Wine Enthusiast and Wine Spectator and priced at about $20, this is a fine example of Mendoza’s pride that won’t break the bank. 12 months in French barrels round out a very likeable Malbec, with jammy black fruit, white pepper, subtle oak and hints of wildflowers. Fully-ripened vines also means these wines have more alcohol. This one reaches 14.5% abv and has a nice full body. You can feel the heat but it is not overwhelming. The tannins are astringent and the acidity bright, but all very well-integrated. It is amazingly smooth and dynamic at once.

If only I had a steak.  Happy Malbec day!

Domaine Du Mas Blanc Clos Du Moulin Collioure 2004

Domaine Du Mas Blanc 2004 Clos Du Moulin Collioure, and my ham and leek frittata

I’m still laughing over this article, and hence will try not to bore you with stuffy or overwraught descriptors, even if this is entry is about a fine wine. That being said, I also hope I never have.  And on with it then.

I am fairly pleased with myself at the moment, having executed a quick, but potentially disastrous recipe. Believe me, I have killed a few promising omelettes in the very few minutes one has to pull it off. I think it comes down to having made the prudent decision to not flip it until it was done and out of being finished off in the broiler. I love to cook and always have, from my days of loading mom and dad’s fridge with 20 different experimental salad dressings to attempting chicken Francaise or whatever the mood called for. Dad made me into a foodie like himself quite early, though one who actually likes to cook the food. My parents also worked late often, so having a more advanced palate meant doing my best to recreate cuisine instead of chicken nuggets or mac and cheese. But while it usually tasted good, we all know execution is just as important. So, bravo! (this time, at least). Not bad for no formal training. Maybe its because I donned the new chef shirt dad got me.

But the real occasion here is the wine. This was one of the wines I’d been saving, but I think almost 10 years is something that I can live with enjoying without too much guilt. Note that I did not patiently watch it age almost ten years, but it still counts. I won this wine at a charity auction along with a nice 2007 Ch. Climens Barsac and a Nuits-St-Georges. So now I can also enjoy it with good conscience. The other two better watch out. I’ve got a taste for the more expensive stuff lately.

I took out the decanter and let it breathe for about an hour. All the key factors for ageworthiness were there: bright acidity and at least medium tannins and fruit, but already perfectly integrated at this stage. The red fruit was soft, but entirely present. It poured a deep ruby, and on the nose were prune, black cherry, white pepper, tobacco, earth and saddle leather aromas. The palate echoed these aromas, along with a full mouthfeel and finish. Complex, yet not heavy. Rich, but not too much so. Another review I read called it ‘rustic’, which I think is accurate. Also noted was that it is very chocolate-friendly, so I’m going to have one last treat with this one before bed.

The Collioure appellation is part of the Languedoc-Roussilon region in the south of France where hotter temperatures suit this late-ripening grape and hence this is 13% abv.  Like its Bandol counterparts, this particular wine is primarily Mourvèdre, at about 80% (also known as Monastrell in nearby Spain and Mataró elsewhere). It is quite popular in this region, and recently it has found new fame in the USA thanks to the “Rhône Rangers”. This Domaine Du Mas Blanc averages around 90 points, depending who you ask. Average price is around $35-$45. This producer, Dr. Parcé, is known for quality over the last 25 years at least. I am certainly enjoying it.

While I could have spent more time cooking a quiche or tarte, the frittata had everything French I was looking for to pair with the wine. Ham, gruyere, leek, and herbs. Filling, yet not too heavy. Perfect together.